I may have reached Peak Smug on a recent Sunday, eating lunch at The Good Grub restaurant at the back of the very grand Grand Hotel building.
Not only was I eating vegan and saving a tiny cloud of farmed animal emissions, I watched torrential rain cascade off the green striped canopy onto Compton Road in Meads from the cosy interior.
All eight tables gradually filled up as the skies continue to darken and the rain poured and poured.
We were two omnivores plus one vegan who declared herself relieved to be able to order anything on the menu. She would normally scrutinise the small print for ‘VE options’ only to be left with a side salad or a veg burger from the bottom of the freezer.
A couple of neighbouring tables were tackling the vegan Sunday roasts, large rimmed plates brimming with seven different vegetables plus ‘home-made seitan turkey’.
No, I didn’t know what that meant either.
To save you the rigour of searching, seitan is a meat substitute providing protein for vegans. It involves a powder called vital wheat gluten, nutritional yeast flakes, onion powder, garlic powder and vegetable stock, among other things, which come together to create a dough.
We were not up to the full roast so ordered three dishes from the shortish main lunch menu.
I had the ‘steak’ toastie (above, in foreground), which was also made of seitan. This, rather cunningly, had the right ‘chew’ and consistency of a steak. I believe it’s called ‘mouth feel’, which refers to the experience of a food in the mouth rather than the taste.
So, it was a great texture for meat eaters who find themselves in a vegan restaurant but it didn’t, in all honesty, taste of anything much in its own right – the flavour came from the truffle mayo in the toastie and the crunch from some spring greens. But a pleasant enough lighter lunch offering.
And beef is the real baddie when it comes to carbon footprint, so I tend towards the view that cutting back is a non-sacrifice compared with a climate apocalypse.
I tend towards the opinion that in a veggie or vegan restaurant, it’s better to eat actual vegetables rather than meat substitutes – but having a choice is the main point of eating out.
I also frequently choose veggie or vegan in any restaurant if it looks like a lip smacker. My choice on this occasion was largely in the name of research – and curiosity about what a vegan ‘steak’ was.
The other omni in our group chose the falafel bowl (above), the most colourful dish by a vegan mile. The verdict? “Flavourful, colourful and filling,” he declared. It was packed with beetroot humous, smashed avocado, fries, sweet potato, roasted peppers, salad and pickled slaw.
So, fanfare of drumming carrot sticks, what did Her Vegan-ness make of the breakfast toastie she chose?
“Very nice.”
Seriously? After we’d booked, tramped through horizontal rain and chosen to go there in a determined spirit of dietary inclusivity?
More detail, I pressed. “I like that it had lots of things in it: sausage, bacon and cheese. It had lots of angles to it.” Fair enough.
The other omni diner then inhaled the berry crumble with vanilla ice cream, pausing only to mutter: “Looks and tastes lovely; can’t tell the difference.”
We also had two banoffee pies with vanilla ice cream. The banoffee was not remotely pie shaped but came in a glass with a light, delicate cream substitute with toffee syrup and banana (obvs).
At the bottom were roughly broken up biscuits where I was expecting more of a crushed, cheesecake-style base of biscuits vibe. But I’m nitpicking. It tasted lovely and I could cope without it looking like a classic pie – I’m brave like that.
Service was friendly but flexible when we wanted a break. Quite a few customers seemed to be regulars who had a chat with each other, giving a very relaxed Sunday atmo.
And you can also bring your canine for a dog-friendly menu which includes two ‘mains’ and a pudding.
Whoever you choose to bring, it’s good food which treads lightly.
:: The Good Grub, 12 Grand Hotel Buildings, Compton Street, Eastbourne BN21 4EJ. 01323 672775. Open Wednesday to Sunday.
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